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You cannot understand India by reading a list of facts. You must feel the press of the crowd, taste the explosion of a paan , smell the marigolds rotting in the temple tank. It is a culture that does not explain itself. It simply is —a slow, eternal, and wildly beating heart beneath the dust. And once you have felt that pulse, you realize that India is not a place you visit. It is a condition that visits you. : Unofficial "portable" packages are frequently bundled with

One of the richest veins for is its festival calendar. India is often called the "Land of Festivals," and for good reason. With a national holiday for almost every religion (Hindu, Muslim, Sikh, Christian, Jain, Buddhist), the lifestyle shifts gear every few weeks. You must feel the press of the crowd,